The white stuff

One of the reasons I like May and early June is that new growth is at its greenest and freshest and this provides a fitting backdrop to show up a succession of hedgerow whites. Pure white hawthorn blossom appears in mature hedgerow trees or along the hedge itself if its been left untrimmed. This is followed by roadside verges lined with cow parsley. Now it’s the turn of the elder, perhaps a little later than usual this year.

With the elder in flower it’s time for the annual ritual of making elder flower cordial, the most fragrant of drinks. It’s very easy to make but you have to pick the elder flowers when they are just ready or the moment is lost until next year. 

Recipes abound but they are all broadly the same. I’ve been using the River Cottage one which seems to work well for me. I don’t add citric acid as the lemons and orange already contain quite a lot. I've not had any problems.

Ingredients

• Makes about 2 litres
• About 25 elderflower heads
• Finely grated zest of 3 unwaxed lemons and 1 orange, plus their juice (about 150ml in total)
• 1kg sugar
• 1 heaped tsp citric acid (optional)

Method

• Inspect the elderflower heads carefully and remove any insects. Place the flower heads in a large bowl together with the orange and lemon zest.
• Bring 1.5 litres water to the boil and pour over the elderflowers and citrus zest. Cover and leave overnight to infuse.
• Strain the liquid through a scalded jelly bag or piece of muslin and pour into a saucepan. Add the sugar, the lemon and orange juice and the citric acid (if using).
• Heat gently to dissolve the sugar, then bring to a simmer and cook for a couple of minutes.

Use a funnel to pour the hot syrup into sterilised bottles. Seal the bottles with swing-top lids, sterilised screw-tops or corks.